Photographs from one of my favourite books
Spectres sets out to reveal the shadows and experiences that form a 'fashion memory' in contemporary dress. In showing the hidden, yet haunting, connections between recent fashion and its past, it uses pieces drawn from avant-garde designers, from the V&A fashion collection and from the archive at ModeMuseum in Antwerp.
Set up as a series of fairground attractions, Spectres invites the visitor into a labyrinth of associations: a shadow lantern throws silhouettes, enlarged maquettes look like games for grown-ups, rotating cogs make and break patterns.
In creating this experimental show, fashion curator Judith Clark invited fashion illustrator Ruben Toledo to provide the drawings, avant-garde jeweller Naomi Filmer to create mannequin prosthetics and fashion theorist Caroline Evans to lend quotations that evoke the complexity of dress today.
Elsa Shiaperelli The Skeleton Dress 1938
Hamish Morrow SS 02
Gaultier HC/S/S 04
Doir spring/summer1959
McQueen A/W 01/02
Elsa Shiaparelli Circus Jacket detail 1937
Ann Demeulemeester autumn/winter 04/05 - A.F Vandevorst leather corset with saddle, khaki felt frock coat and pants A/W98/99
Yohji Yamamoto autumn/winter1991/92
Chanel HC by Largerfeld S/S 02
Gown detail silk polonaise late 1770's Dress coat and waistcoat, silk 1745
Dress with floral detail 1955/60
Installation Ruben Toledo
Installation Ruben Toledo
Installation Naomi Filmer
Installation Naomi Filmer
Installation Naomi Filmer
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